How to Make a Sash Belt or Scarf

2007-08-27-belt-1-400

2007-08-27-belt-2-400

Silk charmeuse sash belt measuring 71.5″ (1.8 m) long by 2.5″ (63 mm) wide with angled ends and edgestitching.

 

This sash belt also works as a long scarf, especially if you make it wider, like this 5.5″ wide Banana Republic scarf, this 9″ wide Karen Zambos Vintage Couture scarf, or this 5″ wide Porter Grey scarf. Some, like the Karen Zambos scarf and this J.Crew silk twill sash belt, are topstitched. They are generally about 2 yds (1.8 m) long.

Materials: Silk twill and silk charmeuse are common fabrics to use, but any non-sheer woven fabric would work. Heavier weight fabrics would work best for use as a belt; lighter weight fabrics should be used if you want it to double as a scarf.

Instructions

    1. Cut a strip of fabric about 2 yds (1.8 m) long as shown in Diagram 1. To determine how wide the strip needs to be, multiply your desired finished belt/scarf width by two and add 0.5″ (13 mm).

Diagram 1

Diagram 1

Note: Alternatively, you can cut the fabric on the bias. With 44″ (1.1 m) wide fabric, you can make a bias sash about 60″ (1.5 m) long before having to add a seam.

    1. Fold the fabric strip in half lengthwise with right sides together and cut the ends at an angle, as shown in Diagram 2.

Diagram 2

Diagram 2
    1. With a 0.25″ (6 mm) seam allowance, sew the raw edges together along both angled ends and along the length of the fabric, leaving an opening of about 4″ (10 cm), as shown in Diagram 3.

Diagram 3

Diagram 3
  1. Trim the seam allowances at each corner, turn the sash right side out, and press.
  2. Finish by either (a) slipstitching the opening closed or (b) topstitching close to edge along all four sides of the sash.

How to Make Twisted Fringe for Scarves and Wraps

DIY Twisted Fringe on a Scarf

Twisted fringe on the end of a wrap.

 

While I’ve shown fringe on a sarong and a scarf already, I haven’t covered how to make the most popular type of fringe, the twisted fringe.

First, section off the loose fringe into evenly spaced intervals. Starting at one side of the scarf, divide the first section of fringe in half and twist one of the halves until it starts to kink. Separately twist the other half in the same direction until it starts to kink. See Diagram 1.

Diagram for DIY twisted fringe  on a scarf or wrap

Diagram 1

When the two halves are twisted, hold them together at the ends and twist them together in the opposite direction, as shown in Diagram 2.

Diagram for DIY twisted fringe or scarf

Diagram 2

Finish by knotting the twisted fringe close to the end. Repeat on remaining sections of fringe.

How to Make a No-Sew Jersey Scarf

DIY no-sew scarf tutorial

Close-up of DIY no-sew jersey scarf

Viscose jersey scarf with raw edges, measuring 2.5 yds (2.3 m) by 18″ (46 cm).

 

Perfect for a long strip of leftover jersey fabric. I was inspired by the American Apparel jersey scarf which is as basic as it gets (just a rectangle of raw-edged fabric), but seems to be pretty popular for being so soft, versatile and portable (read what Mighty Goods had to say about it). All you’ll need to make your own jersey scarf is 2-2.5 yds (1.8-2.3 m) of a soft jersey knit fabric. Cut the fabric as shown in Diagram 1.

Diagram 1

Diagram 1

You can pick a slightly sheer cotton jersey like the American Apparel scarf (which is 93″ long by 16″ wide). You can also try rayon jersey like this narrow Banana Republic metallic scarf (80″ by 7″) or this Nordstrom scarf (80″ by 18″). Make sure that the wrong side of the fabric looks fairly nice because both sides of the fabric might show when you are wearing the scarf. After you cut your fabric, just leave the edges raw; the edges of many jersey fabrics curl up naturally.

How To Make a Headband, Version 5: Stretch Jersey Headband

Stretch Jersey Headband - 1
Stretch Jersey Headband - 2

Jersey/spandex fabric headband 2" (51 mm) wide by 17" (43 cm) in circumference.

You can find a simple jersey headband in stores for pretty cheap, like this American Apparel headband for $8. But if you have some scrap fabric or a t-shirt that you don’t wear lying around, you easily can sew one yourself.

Materials: Jersey knit/spandex blend fabric

Instructions

  1. For a 2" (51 mm) wide headband, cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1.
  2. Note for the length: You’ll need a length of approximately 17-19" (43-48 cm), but it depends on the stretchiness of your fabric and the size of your head. Try wrapping a folded piece of your fabric around your head to figure out the exact length, adding in an extra 0.5" (13 mm) for seam allowances.

    Note for the width: If you want a different width for your headband, multiply your desired finished headband width by two and add 0.5" (13 mm) to determine the width of fabric to cut.

    Diagram 1

    Diagram 1
  3. Fold the short sides of the headband in half with right sides together. With a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance and using a stretch stitch, sew the long raw edges together to create a tube, stopping and starting about 1.5" (38 mm) away from each end. See Diagram 2.
  4. Diagram 2

    Diagram 2
  5. Turn the tube right side out.
  6. With right sides together and using a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance, sew the short ends of the headband together as shown in Diagram 3. It will be tricky to get the short ends to lay flat to sew them together, so you may have to pin and sew a portion at a time.
  7. Diagram 3

    Diagram 3
  8. Fold the seam back into the inside of the tube. Tuck the raw edges at the opening to the inside of the tube and slipstitch the opening closed.
  9. Press the headband so that the seams lay flat.

How to Make a Headband, Version 4: Headband with Ties

Headband with Ties - 1
Headband with Ties - 2

Silk headband measuring 2" (51 mm) wide by 17" (43 cm) long with 13" (33 cm) long ties. The headband is connected at the back with covered elastic measuring 0.5" (13 mm) wide by 4" (10 cm) long.

Materials

  • Woven fabric, like lightweight cotton or silk
  • 0.5" (13 mm) wide elastic–you’ll need a length of about 4.5" (11 cm), but you can wait to cut it until the fitting stage
  • Safety pin or loop turner

Instructions

Measuring and Cutting

  • Main Piece (including ties): Cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1. The 44" (112 cm) length creates ties about 13" (33 cm) long; adjust the length if you want longer or shorter ties. The width range of 3.5" (89 mm) to 8.5" (22 cm) results in finished headband widths ranging from 1.5" (38 mm) to 4" (10 cm), respectively. To determine the exact fabric width to cut, multiply your desired finished headband width by two and add 0.5" (13 mm).
  • Connector Piece: Cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1.
  • Note: Any grainline orientation should be fine, but laying the long sides of the rectangles crosswise (i.e., perpendicular to the selvage) will use the least fabric yardage.

    Diagram 1

    Diagram 1

Sewing

  1. Fold the short sides of the main piece in half with right sides together and, using a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance, sew the long raw edges together to create a tube, as shown in Diagram 2. Repeat with the connector piece.
  2. Diagram 2

    Diagram 2
  3. Turn the main piece right side out and press so that the seam is positioned at center back (CB). Repeat with the connector piece. (Use a safety pin or loop turner to turn the pieces right side out if needed.)
  4. Insert the elastic inside the connector piece using a safety pin or loop turner.
  5. Sew the elastic and connector piece together at one end with a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance, as shown in Diagram 3. (On the other end, just leave the end of the elastic sticking out for now; you can pin the end of the connector piece to the elastic to keep it in place if needed).
  6. Diagram 3

    Diagram 3
  7. Fold the main piece in half lengthwise and mark it with chalk or a fabric marker 8.5" (22 cm) away from the fold in both directions, as shown in Diagram 4.
  8. Diagram 4

    Diagram 4
  9. If your headband is wider than 1.5" (38 mm), pleat the main piece at each mark to make it about 1.5" (38 mm) wide, as shown in Diagram 5. Pin or baste stitch the pleats to secure them.
  10. Diagram 5

    Diagram 5
  11. Lay the connector piece down on top of the main piece, both with CB seams facing up. Align the stitchline at the end of the connector piece (Step 4) with one of the marks on the main piece, as shown in Diagram 6. At the mark, fold the sides of the main piece over the connector piece (the folded sides will overlap a little), and sew all layers together.
  12. Diagram 6

    Diagram 6
  13. Test the fit by trying on the headband while stretching the free end of the elastic to the other mark on the main piece. Cut elastic to desired length, including an extra 0.25" (6 mm) for a seam allowance.
  14. Repeat Step 4 with the other ends of the elastic and connector piece.
  15. Repeat Step 7 with the other ends of the connector piece and main piece, making sure the headband is not twisted.
  16. Remove the basting stitches made in Step 6, if any.
  17. (Optional) Cut the ends of the ties at an angle as shown in Diagram 7.
  18. Diagram 7

    Diagram 7
  19. Tuck the ends of the ties 0.25" (6 mm) to the inside and edgestitch the openings closed.

How To Make a Headband, Version 3: Easy Ribbon Headband

Easy Ribbon Headband - 1
Easy Ribbon Headband - 2

Ribbon headbands secured to elastic ponytail holders.

I’ve seen many headbands lately which use a loop of cord elastic that is cinched at the center, usually by a metal crimp, to form a figure eight (like Anthropologie’s Oxford headband, Anthropologie’s Fairytale Theater headband, Banana Republic’s double ribbon headband, and Santi’s metallic headband). This inspired me to use two ponytail holders to achieve a similar effect–because I do not have any metal crimps and neither do you, I presume, and, while we’re at it, maybe you don’t even have cord elastic. So here it is, an easy headband using minimal supplies that you probably already have at home.

Materials

  • Ribbon, approximately 15-20" (38-51 cm) in length (the length will depend on the size of the ponytail holders you use)
  • 2 elastic ponytail holders

Instructions

  1. Interlace the 2 ponytail holders together as shown in Diagram 1 and pull on them to form a knot.
  2. Diagram 1

    Diagram 1
  3. Fold one end of your ribbon 0.25-0.5" (6-13 mm) to the wrong side twice, slipping one of the ponytail holders inside the second fold. Without sewing over the ponytail holder, sew the folded end of the ribbon with a rectangle of stitching as shown in Diagram 2.
  4. Tip: If your ribbon is wider than 0.75" (19 mm), you may want to fold or pleat the ribbon at the ends so that it is narrow enough to attach easily to the ponytail holders.

    Diagram 2

    Diagram 2
  5. Test the fit by trying on the headband while stretching the ponytail holders to the unattached end of the ribbon. Cut the ribbon to the desired length, adding in extra length for the seam allowance.
  6. Repeat Step 2 with the other end of the ribbon and the other ponytail holder, making sure the ribbon is not twisted.

Top 7 Tutorials for Making Your Own Shopping Tote

Canvas Bag

Update your canvas tote bag collection (I know you’re not using plastic bags at the grocery store anymore) with one you made yourself. Here are the top 7 tote bag tutorials on the web.

Singlet-Style Shopping Bag, based on the design of the regular plastic grocery bag. This one is receiving much love on Craftster right now.

Two-Hour Tote Bag, perfect for some standard canvas fabric and, for the straps, nylon webbing.

Curved Gusset Bag, just see how much stuff you can fit in it!

Lotta Jansdotter’s tote bag from her book Simple Sewing, a smaller bag with a contrast fabric bottom.

Martha Stewart’s tote bag, the largest bag in the group. She actually calls it a beach bag, but it would work for any kind of serious hauling.

Morsbag, no frills, just the standard canvas bag. There is even an animated version of the instructions, so it’s a cinch to follow.

And, finally, a knitted tote bag for smaller loads. Yes, it has holes, but it’s too pretty to pass up so just don’t buy any grapes.

If you know of other great tote bag tutorials, let me know about it in the comments.

Retail Roundup: Wide Headbands

Wide Headband with Covered Elastic - 1

Links to Retail Examples of the DIY Wide Headband

Echo headband, in nylon mesh with colorful embroidery.

Anthropologie Strata headband, 4.5" wide in a brightly-striped open knit, made from cotton and polyester.

Anthropologie Gardening headband, 3" wide in floral silk.

Ann Taylor headband, about 3-4" wide in white cotton with brown floral embroidery. And a similar Ann Taylor headband in black with white pindots.

How to Make a Headband, Version 2: The Wide Headband

Wide Headband with Covered Elastic - 1
Wide Headband with Covered Elastic - 2

Cotton voile headband measuring 3.5" (89 mm) wide by 15.5" (39 cm) long with covered elastic measuring 0.5" (13 mm) wide by 4" (10 cm) long.

Materials

  • Woven fabric, like lightweight cotton or silk
  • 0.5" (13 mm) wide elastic–you’ll need a length of about 4.5" (11 cm), but you can wait to cut it until the fitting stage
  • Safety pin or loop turner

Instructions

Measuring and Cutting

  • Main Piece: Cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1. The width range of 4.5" (11 cm) to 12.5" (32 cm) results in finished headband widths ranging from 2" (51 mm) to 6" (15 cm), respectively. Multiply your desired finished headband width by two and add 0.5" (13 mm) to determine the exact fabric width to cut.
  • Connector Piece: Cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1.
  • Note: Any grainline orientation should be fine, but laying the long sides of the rectangles crosswise (i.e., perpendicular to the selvage) will use the least fabric yardage.

    Diagram 1

    Diagram 1

Sewing

  1. Fold the short sides of the main piece in half with right sides together and, using a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance, sew the long raw edges together to create a tube as shown in Diagram 2. Repeat with the connector piece.
  2. Diagram 2

    Diagram 2
  3. Turn the main piece right side out and press so that the seam is positioned at center back (CB). Repeat with the connector piece. Use a safety pin or loop turner to turn the pieces right side out if needed.
  4. Insert the elastic inside the connector piece using a safety pin or loop turner.
  5. Sew the elastic and connector piece together at one end with a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance as shown in Diagram 3. (On the other end, just leave the end of the elastic sticking out for now; you can pin the end of the connector piece to the elastic to keep it in place if needed).
  6. Diagram 3

    Diagram 3
  7. Mark the short ends of the main piece about 0.375" (10 mm) away from each long (folded) edge as shown in Diagram 4. In between the markings on each end, make pleats as needed so that the width in between the markings matches the width of the connector piece, which in this case is 0.625" (16 mm). If your main piece is on the narrow side, try one knife pleat in the center; if it’s on the wide side, try multiple knife pleats. You can also try an inverted or box pleat as shown in Diagram 4. Pin or baste stitch the pleats to secure them.
  8. Diagram 4

    Diagram 4
  9. Lay the main piece down with the front side facing up (i.e., CB seam facing down). On top of the main piece, lay the connector piece down with the back side facing up (i.e., CB seam facing up), aligning the edge of the connector piece that is sewn to the elastic with one of the ends of the main piece. The connector piece should be laying on top of the pleated portion of the main piece and should fit just within the markings you made on the main piece. Fold the short sides of the main piece 0.375" over the connector piece (the folded sides will overlap), and sew all layers together with a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance as shown in Diagram 5.
  10. Diagram 5

    Diagram 5
  11. Turn the headband right side out and test the fit by trying on the headband while stretching the elastic to the unattached end of the main piece. Cut elastic to desired length.
  12. Repeat Step 4 with the other ends of the elastic and connector piece.
  13. Repeat Step 6 with the other ends of the connector piece and main piece.
  14. Turn the headband right side out.