Top Christmas Stocking Tutorials

Just in time for Christmas, here’s a round-up of great Christmas stocking tutorials on the web.

diy elf boot stocking

An elf boot stocking from Disney’s Family Fun site.

Amy Butler DIY stocking

Amy Butler’s stocking pattern (scroll down to the stocking pattern) made with felt, fabric trim and pom-pom fringe.

Craft podcast stitched in time stocking

CRAFT features a monogrammed stocking pattern straight from Alicia Paulson’s new book Stitched in Time.

A Fanciful Twist’s no-sew stocking uses hot glue on scallop-edged felt.

Martha Stewart has a slideshow of Christmas stocking ideas including rick-rack felt stockings and decorative hole-punch felt stockings.

Finally, a couple of knitted versions: Knitted mini stockings from Little Cotton Rabbits and a knitted and felted stocking excerpted from the Winter Knits Kit
(via Canadian Living).

And please feel free to add other tutorials in the comments.

How To Make a Headband, Version 5: Stretch Jersey Headband

Stretch Jersey Headband - 1
Stretch Jersey Headband - 2

Jersey/spandex fabric headband 2" (51 mm) wide by 17" (43 cm) in circumference.

You can find a simple jersey headband in stores for pretty cheap, like this American Apparel headband for $8. But if you have some scrap fabric or a t-shirt that you don’t wear lying around, you easily can sew one yourself.

Materials: Jersey knit/spandex blend fabric

Instructions

  1. For a 2" (51 mm) wide headband, cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1.
  2. Note for the length: You’ll need a length of approximately 17-19" (43-48 cm), but it depends on the stretchiness of your fabric and the size of your head. Try wrapping a folded piece of your fabric around your head to figure out the exact length, adding in an extra 0.5" (13 mm) for seam allowances.

    Note for the width: If you want a different width for your headband, multiply your desired finished headband width by two and add 0.5" (13 mm) to determine the width of fabric to cut.

    Diagram 1

    Diagram 1
  3. Fold the short sides of the headband in half with right sides together. With a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance and using a stretch stitch, sew the long raw edges together to create a tube, stopping and starting about 1.5" (38 mm) away from each end. See Diagram 2.
  4. Diagram 2

    Diagram 2
  5. Turn the tube right side out.
  6. With right sides together and using a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance, sew the short ends of the headband together as shown in Diagram 3. It will be tricky to get the short ends to lay flat to sew them together, so you may have to pin and sew a portion at a time.
  7. Diagram 3

    Diagram 3
  8. Fold the seam back into the inside of the tube. Tuck the raw edges at the opening to the inside of the tube and slipstitch the opening closed.
  9. Press the headband so that the seams lay flat.

Built By Wendy 3835 for the Fall Season

Built By Wendy pattern 3835

This Built By Wendy pattern (Simplicity 3835) has been very popular this spring and summer, as you can see at Soulemama and Shim + Sons. Most people seem to think it’s cute and comfortable, well-drafted, and easy to make. It’s also a very spot-on style for the season–just look at this similar Puella dress that Kate Hudson is wearing. Judging by some new fall tops and dresses with the same silhouette, like these from Milly, Mint, Twelfth St. by Cynthia Vincent, and Anthropologie, the pattern should be perfect for your fall wardrobe as well.

How to Make a Headband, Version 4: Headband with Ties

Headband with Ties - 1
Headband with Ties - 2

Silk headband measuring 2" (51 mm) wide by 17" (43 cm) long with 13" (33 cm) long ties. The headband is connected at the back with covered elastic measuring 0.5" (13 mm) wide by 4" (10 cm) long.

Materials

  • Woven fabric, like lightweight cotton or silk
  • 0.5" (13 mm) wide elastic–you’ll need a length of about 4.5" (11 cm), but you can wait to cut it until the fitting stage
  • Safety pin or loop turner

Instructions

Measuring and Cutting

  • Main Piece (including ties): Cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1. The 44" (112 cm) length creates ties about 13" (33 cm) long; adjust the length if you want longer or shorter ties. The width range of 3.5" (89 mm) to 8.5" (22 cm) results in finished headband widths ranging from 1.5" (38 mm) to 4" (10 cm), respectively. To determine the exact fabric width to cut, multiply your desired finished headband width by two and add 0.5" (13 mm).
  • Connector Piece: Cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1.
  • Note: Any grainline orientation should be fine, but laying the long sides of the rectangles crosswise (i.e., perpendicular to the selvage) will use the least fabric yardage.

    Diagram 1

    Diagram 1

Sewing

  1. Fold the short sides of the main piece in half with right sides together and, using a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance, sew the long raw edges together to create a tube, as shown in Diagram 2. Repeat with the connector piece.
  2. Diagram 2

    Diagram 2
  3. Turn the main piece right side out and press so that the seam is positioned at center back (CB). Repeat with the connector piece. (Use a safety pin or loop turner to turn the pieces right side out if needed.)
  4. Insert the elastic inside the connector piece using a safety pin or loop turner.
  5. Sew the elastic and connector piece together at one end with a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance, as shown in Diagram 3. (On the other end, just leave the end of the elastic sticking out for now; you can pin the end of the connector piece to the elastic to keep it in place if needed).
  6. Diagram 3

    Diagram 3
  7. Fold the main piece in half lengthwise and mark it with chalk or a fabric marker 8.5" (22 cm) away from the fold in both directions, as shown in Diagram 4.
  8. Diagram 4

    Diagram 4
  9. If your headband is wider than 1.5" (38 mm), pleat the main piece at each mark to make it about 1.5" (38 mm) wide, as shown in Diagram 5. Pin or baste stitch the pleats to secure them.
  10. Diagram 5

    Diagram 5
  11. Lay the connector piece down on top of the main piece, both with CB seams facing up. Align the stitchline at the end of the connector piece (Step 4) with one of the marks on the main piece, as shown in Diagram 6. At the mark, fold the sides of the main piece over the connector piece (the folded sides will overlap a little), and sew all layers together.
  12. Diagram 6

    Diagram 6
  13. Test the fit by trying on the headband while stretching the free end of the elastic to the other mark on the main piece. Cut elastic to desired length, including an extra 0.25" (6 mm) for a seam allowance.
  14. Repeat Step 4 with the other ends of the elastic and connector piece.
  15. Repeat Step 7 with the other ends of the connector piece and main piece, making sure the headband is not twisted.
  16. Remove the basting stitches made in Step 6, if any.
  17. (Optional) Cut the ends of the ties at an angle as shown in Diagram 7.
  18. Diagram 7

    Diagram 7
  19. Tuck the ends of the ties 0.25" (6 mm) to the inside and edgestitch the openings closed.

How to Make a Gathered Jersey Skirt

Gathered Jersey Knit Skirt - 1
Gathered Jersey Knit Skirt - 2

Cotton/lycra jersey knit skirt with 5" (13 cm) waistband and gathered skirt body. The circumference of the finished skirt body (ungathered) is 1.5 times the hip circumference, and the length of the finished skirt body is 19.5" (50 cm).

For a fuller version which has a skirt body circumference that is twice the hip circumference, see the post How to Make a Gathered Skirt with Knit Waistband.

Materials

  • Knit fabric with at least 40% stretch (you could use a lightweight woven for the skirt body and just use the stretch knit for the waistband)

Instructions

Measuring and Cutting

  • Waistband: Cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1.
  • Note for the Length (L): The waistband length of 11" (28 cm) used in Diagram 1 creates a finished waistband that is 5" (13 cm) thick. For a different waistband thickness, multiply the desired thickness by 2 and add 1" (25 mm) for seam allowances. For example, for a 3" (76 mm) thick finished waistband, cut a length of 7" (18 cm).

    Note for the Width (W): For the best fit, you can figure out exactly how wide to cut the fabric for your waistband. Wrap a folded piece of your fabric crosswise around your waist where you want the waistband to be, stretching it for a snug fit. Mark the width and add 1" (25 mm) for seam allowances.

  • Skirt Body: Cut 2 rectangles from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1. To determine the skirt body length, measure from where you want the bottom edge of the waistband to hit on you hips down to your desired hemline, and add 1" (25 mm) for seam allowances.
    For example, I cut the skirt body 20.5" (52 cm) long for a skirt that hits just below the knees.
  • Diagram 1

    Diagram 1

Sewing the Waistband

  1. First we’re going to sew the waistband into a tube that will fit around your waist; it will have only one seam, which will be at the center back (CB). To do this, fold the width of the waistband in half with right sides together and sew the lengthwise raw edges (i.e., the edges that are 11" in length) together, as shown in Diagram 2.
  2. Diagram 2

    Diagram 2
  3. Now fold the length of the waistband in half with the wrong sides together, as shown in Diagram 3, and pin in place.
  4. Diagram 3

    Diagram 3
  5. Divide the waistband into quarters by marking the raw edges at center front (CF) and at each side using chalk or a fabric marker.

Sewing the Skirt

  1. With right sides together, sew the side seams of the skirt body.
  2. Divide the skirt into quarters by marking the top edge of the skirt body at CF and CB using chalk or a fabric marker.
  3. Sew a gathering stitch (i.e., a long, straight stitch with the tension loosened) with contrasting thread 0.375" (10 mm) from the top edge of the skirt body, starting and stopping at each side seam and leaving long thread ends.
  4. Pull the thread ends of the gathering stitch to gather the skirt body to the width of the waistband, distributing the gathering evenly across each quarter section of the skirt body.

Attaching the Waistband to the Skirt Body

  1. Pin the top edge of the skirt body to the (raw-edged) bottom of the folded waistband, with right sides together and with quarter markings aligned. With the skirt body facing up, sew the skirt to the waistband using a stretch stitch, as shown in Diagram 4.
  2. Diagram 4

    Diagram 4
  3. Remove the gathering stitches from the skirt body.

Finishing Up

  1. Hem the skirt (optional for jersey knit) by folding the hem edge 0.25" (6 mm) to the wrong side twice, as shown in Diagram 5. Sew along the upper edge of the hem.
  2. Diagram 5

    Diagram 5

Top 7 Tutorials for Making Your Own Shopping Tote

Canvas Bag

Update your canvas tote bag collection (I know you’re not using plastic bags at the grocery store anymore) with one you made yourself. Here are the top 7 tote bag tutorials on the web.

Singlet-Style Shopping Bag, based on the design of the regular plastic grocery bag. This one is receiving much love on Craftster right now.

Two-Hour Tote Bag, perfect for some standard canvas fabric and, for the straps, nylon webbing.

Curved Gusset Bag, just see how much stuff you can fit in it!

Lotta Jansdotter’s tote bag from her book Simple Sewing, a smaller bag with a contrast fabric bottom.

Martha Stewart’s tote bag, the largest bag in the group. She actually calls it a beach bag, but it would work for any kind of serious hauling.

Morsbag, no frills, just the standard canvas bag. There is even an animated version of the instructions, so it’s a cinch to follow.

And, finally, a knitted tote bag for smaller loads. Yes, it has holes, but it’s too pretty to pass up so just don’t buy any grapes.

If you know of other great tote bag tutorials, let me know about it in the comments.

How to Make a Headband, Version 2: The Wide Headband

Wide Headband with Covered Elastic - 1
Wide Headband with Covered Elastic - 2

Cotton voile headband measuring 3.5" (89 mm) wide by 15.5" (39 cm) long with covered elastic measuring 0.5" (13 mm) wide by 4" (10 cm) long.

Materials

  • Woven fabric, like lightweight cotton or silk
  • 0.5" (13 mm) wide elastic–you’ll need a length of about 4.5" (11 cm), but you can wait to cut it until the fitting stage
  • Safety pin or loop turner

Instructions

Measuring and Cutting

  • Main Piece: Cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1. The width range of 4.5" (11 cm) to 12.5" (32 cm) results in finished headband widths ranging from 2" (51 mm) to 6" (15 cm), respectively. Multiply your desired finished headband width by two and add 0.5" (13 mm) to determine the exact fabric width to cut.
  • Connector Piece: Cut 1 rectangle from your fabric as shown in Diagram 1.
  • Note: Any grainline orientation should be fine, but laying the long sides of the rectangles crosswise (i.e., perpendicular to the selvage) will use the least fabric yardage.

    Diagram 1

    Diagram 1

Sewing

  1. Fold the short sides of the main piece in half with right sides together and, using a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance, sew the long raw edges together to create a tube as shown in Diagram 2. Repeat with the connector piece.
  2. Diagram 2

    Diagram 2
  3. Turn the main piece right side out and press so that the seam is positioned at center back (CB). Repeat with the connector piece. Use a safety pin or loop turner to turn the pieces right side out if needed.
  4. Insert the elastic inside the connector piece using a safety pin or loop turner.
  5. Sew the elastic and connector piece together at one end with a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance as shown in Diagram 3. (On the other end, just leave the end of the elastic sticking out for now; you can pin the end of the connector piece to the elastic to keep it in place if needed).
  6. Diagram 3

    Diagram 3
  7. Mark the short ends of the main piece about 0.375" (10 mm) away from each long (folded) edge as shown in Diagram 4. In between the markings on each end, make pleats as needed so that the width in between the markings matches the width of the connector piece, which in this case is 0.625" (16 mm). If your main piece is on the narrow side, try one knife pleat in the center; if it’s on the wide side, try multiple knife pleats. You can also try an inverted or box pleat as shown in Diagram 4. Pin or baste stitch the pleats to secure them.
  8. Diagram 4

    Diagram 4
  9. Lay the main piece down with the front side facing up (i.e., CB seam facing down). On top of the main piece, lay the connector piece down with the back side facing up (i.e., CB seam facing up), aligning the edge of the connector piece that is sewn to the elastic with one of the ends of the main piece. The connector piece should be laying on top of the pleated portion of the main piece and should fit just within the markings you made on the main piece. Fold the short sides of the main piece 0.375" over the connector piece (the folded sides will overlap), and sew all layers together with a 0.25" (6 mm) seam allowance as shown in Diagram 5.
  10. Diagram 5

    Diagram 5
  11. Turn the headband right side out and test the fit by trying on the headband while stretching the elastic to the unattached end of the main piece. Cut elastic to desired length.
  12. Repeat Step 4 with the other ends of the elastic and connector piece.
  13. Repeat Step 6 with the other ends of the connector piece and main piece.
  14. Turn the headband right side out.